Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Friday, July 11, 2008
stay tuned for more....
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Two more days in Yei. I think I'm ready to go. Wait, I KNOW, I'm ready to go. The long hot days are making me a bit delirious, but no fear, I'm still finding ways to smile and have back aching laughs. I've been staying at the CTC, Crop Training Center, that 1/4 of a mile off the Yei-Juba road at the end a cul de sac. Just before the entrance gate is a small path that leads towards a small village consisting of 15 tukuls on the left handside. About 1/2 down there is a road that is a short cut over to what we call non profit row. UNHCR, ARC, NPA and UMCOR all have their headquarters on this road. I usually take this back way to avoid the main road where Boda Boda drivers love to hiss at the white girl, "Sissstta, Boda boad-ride for free sista." I'd rather not thank you. My legs work just fine. So I take this back way to be less conspicuous. Ha right. Last week I was leisurely strolling the short cut, strategizing how to get across the small pond that was created after the early morning rain. As I made my way across and began to summit a small hill I heard the call.
KAWAAJA! KAWAAJA! (white person)
I hear the watchman make his call. All of a sudden little dark bodies, some naked, some dressed in over size shirts, all screaming and laughing came stampeding out of nowhere. KAWAAJA! KAWAJA! Just writing this, I have to pause and laugh. It is honestly a site I will hold dear to my heart, since I feel like a celebrity everytime it happens. Their excitment is a little ubsurd and hysterical but an absolute delightful to see. I liken it to those vidoes where people are getting squashed, crying and sobbing at concerts trying to touch Michael Jackson or Bono. Their beautiful little bodies get as tight as fiddle strings and they can barely breath. They run after me smiling, shouting, "kawaaja, kawaaja how are you? how are you? I am fine!" They all extend there tiny little hands so I can shake and greet them. They do it over and over and over until I eventually make my way past their territory. "Bye Bye Kawaaja" they yell. I turn around and smile and watch as passers by say,"they love to practice their English."
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
We, or rather I, take a lot for granted in life. I like going to the grocery store on a hot summer day, knowing when the door opens there will be air conditioning that is almost too cold as I wander the aisles looking for the perfect snack. I enjoy being exhausted and flopping on my bed not worrying if my mosquito net is tucked in. After being in
Ok I’ve traveled down some less than perfect roads in the backwoods of
Yesterday I was invited to take a ride to Kaya to take pictures an visit some primary schools that my friend Sashi has opened here in
At 10:05 I jumped into a land cruiser with Sashi, two engineers, a field worker, a woman about to give birth and her sister. The beginning of any journey is filled with gusto and optimism. I sat welcoming the thoughts of stopping to buy bananas, avocado, roasted corn and g-nuts from the local villagers. I was also excited because the road to Kaya takes you along the border of
We zig zagged our way through the labryinth and made it to the border where we ushered the pregnant woman on to the next leg of her journey and then we turned around to do it all over again.
I was glad to see the landscape. A more mountainous terrain than what I've been used to in Yei. The lush hillside was breathtaking even though my butt was enduring a numbness I prayed wasn't permanent. Our way home was much less energetic as we stopped by the funeral to pay our respects and then continued on moving in and out of sleep while our heads bounced like weeble wobbles. As Sashi pulled up to let me out I thought of 89 and how smooth the road is. How we cover distance so easily complaining when we hit rush hour traffic. I will be pressed to bark at road travel in the U.S. for sometime to come. I wonder how it will feel to ride on asphalt again.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Friday, June 20, 2008
What do we want? Protection
What do we need? Safety
What did we lose? Dignity
What do we have?Hope
They also wrote and prepared a song and a dramatization of a family forced to flee all they had due to war. They each wrote essay's about living their lives as refugees or about friends and family that had been forced to live in camps. Incredibly moving and heartwrenching. We built them up. They were so excited to perform in Freedom Square infront of a crowd of people. But of course nothing seems to go smoothly here. How were we going to get our girls into town? Our school is located 8 miles out of town, beyond the level 3 emergency level set by the UN. They would not provide us transportation. The girls were devestated. Lauren, Megan, Deana and I couldn't do this to them. Lauren and I went to an organization and pleaded with them to rent us a 3 ton tipper truck. They were very willing but it would take some more planning. At 6 am we waited a the gate to drive out to the school and load the back of it with 45 girls and 5 teachers!!
They piled in and when I say piled in I mean piled in. They were singing and laughing and so ready to perform. Lauren and I followed behind in the Land Cruiser to make sure no one fell off Thankfully all were safe less than a few girls vommitting off the side. I CANNOT describe the condition of the road we travel on. We got them to the meeting spot on time and they marched to Freedom Square. Can I say I felt proud?? In their orange shirts, carrying signs they made that said NEW SUDAN EDUCATION INTIATIVE-Building Peace Through Education and holding the New Sudan Flag. They were scheduled to perform at 12:00 and at 12:30 they took the stage. I could barely hold back the tears. They were beautiful, strong and screaming, "WE ARE FROM NESEI SCHOOL. WE ARE BUILDING PEACE THROUGH EDUCATION."
Friday, June 13, 2008
Yesterday evening it began raining around 5 o’clock. It was a rain close to what you’d experience during a hurricane. Whipping winds rattled our tent city. Thunder and lightening penetrated my tent lining as I lay in bed literally feeling the electricity saturating my skin. All I could do was pray that it wouldn’t strike me dead. Everyone scattered to their respective “homes” when the rain began. I sat alone with my thoughts trying to keep myself occupied by reading God Grew Tired of Us. I’m not in the happiest part of the book, not that there are happy parts, but it’s where John has just settled into the Kakuma Refugee Camp. Everything I’ve read and heard in the states has become so real for me- from understanding the importance of cows in Dinka culture to navigating a landscape filled with such a dark history. Being here has changed my perspective on life, on hope, despair, and resiliency and the ability to live in fear.
Eventually the rain turned to a steady stream that was bearable to move around in. We all crept out of our tents and one by one slid by way of mud into the designated “office.” We gathered around a candle to eat our rice, beans and posho and drink tea. It was cozy and all seemed right for the moment. One by one, through the glistening night each retreated back to our tents.
My setup has evolved into a nice dwelling space. I actually have a mattress and a bed in my tent so it’s much more manageable then what I anticipated. I snuggled back into my nest, read more about John Dau and drifted to sleep, while listening to the pitter patter of the rain against my tent. I’ve never slept as well as I do here. I think it’s because each day is mentally, emotionally and physically taxing. I slept while other in my camp lay awake worrying about our safety. I wasn’t aware of the information that was moving through camp. I awoke to the unsettling news.
A group known as the LRA, Lord’s Resistance Army, a terrorist group from Uganda began its attacks again with Sudan, Uganda and the Congo responding that, “enough is enough.” Joseph Kony and his rebel group made its way to the villages of Nabanga and Yamba killing 21 people which included six children. Their intended path was/is towards Kajo Keji, at the Sudan-Uganda border. This is not very far from where our school site is located. We really didn’t know what to do. Evacuate immediately? Call the SPLA (Sudanese Peoples Liberation Army?) The Yei and Lainya county commissioner? And so on. But before we tacked Joseph Cony and company our first mission of the morning was to get Sasha to the airport. She’d missed it two days earlier and missing this one was not acceptable. We needed to get her out of southern Sudan. Lauren, Sasha and I hopped in the Land Cruiser and off we went. Not 10 minutes into our ride we got stuck. We were trapped in the biggest, blackest, wettest hole of mud-tires spinning but going know where. We jumped out and began digging, pushing cursing, anything to get the damn vehicle to move. Oh what a sight we were. Time to call in the troops. Marlen, Camis and Mousa came to our rescue with the tipper truck and with some good team work got us out It was smooth sailing for the next hour, that’s the only way you can live here, moment to moment. We made to the airport with 10 minutes to spare. Sad yet relieved we watched Sasha board the plan for Entebbe. (I have to write one full entry on Sasha. A young girl of 19 she has changed lives and will make the world a better place wherever she goes.)
The rest of our day was spent on the GO. We moved between the commissioner’s offices, to the SPLA Police barracks, UN/UNHCR, to calling local NGO’s on advice and while sneaking in a cup of tea. My trip to Sudan has many layers to it, one of those is wearing the hat of a NESEI Board member and Chair of the Sudan Operations committee. I came here intending to set up our security procedures but didn’t anticipate doing it in the situation.
We spent Saturday and Sunday assessing and contemplating what, if any action to take. After a visit from the commissioner who vowed to defend us, we decided not to evacuate. The locals vowed to serve and protect us. We continued business as usual not breathing a word of this to the girls.
After our decision was made in regards to the girls I decided it was best for me to take leave from the site for a few days. The advice we received was that while we weren’t in immediate danger having a kawajja (white) staying there wasn’t the safest. My exhaustion was taking me to a place where I couldn’t think straight. This is not what you need in times like these. Being held accountable for 45 girls is a big deal. I feel personally responsible for their safety and over all well being. They are young, innocent and vulnerable-an easy target for a madman.
I’ve spent the last week at the CTC (Crop Training Center) where we have a room. I’ve been working on security protocols, emergency procedures and meeting great new allies at the UNHCR and Samaritan’s Purse. I miss the site and the girls. I think today may be the day to reunite with them.
Friday, June 6, 2008
After my adventures in Juba and Kolyngang I've safely made it back to Lanya County and the school site. A was welcomed by a wonderful surprise: a wireless satelitte dish. Yes, I'm connected to the 21st century. I found out the KG and the Celts have made it to the finals , thankfully Hillary has decided to retreat and I have a manicure and pedicure lined up in August. Let's just say my feet are in desperate need of TLC. This week's topic question: how annoying can a fly be? AHHHHH sweet and loving lord I'd like to embrace all living things but baby give me DEET. I'll add it to my list of wants: a toliet that flushes, sushi and clean cotton sheets.
Ok enough of that let's talk about the school. It's is moving along nicely. We have 40 girls here and 30 more on the way. They have begun lessons in English, Math, Leadership and Civic Engagement. This afternoon I'm going to do a workshop on role models and identity. There is a famous Dinka woman by the name of Alek Wek who is taking the world by storm. As Aduei would say, "black is in." I've planned what I hope is an engaging lesson highlighting the characteristics they have and ones they hope to gain. We'll see how it goes. My American accent makes them laugh so none the less they will be entertained.
Update on Bior:
After our journey to Juba/Bor and then his trek to Nimule he has decided to head back to the states early. I think he misses the lab ! ha...It really is another world here and it requires pateince, resiliency and every once in a while a good strong drink, preference a NILE (beer). I'm still having a hard time believing that we set a goal and reached it. We went to his village, we reunited him with aunts, uncles, cousins, childhood friends. We ate cow liver and I was the first white woman to sleep in their village. The range of emotions I've endured makes me appreciate the soul of humanity.
Ok I'm now going to try and upload some pics! Please if you're around write me how life is for you!! I can't get to email now....
Yin Ce Lec (Thank You!)
Saturday, May 31, 2008
oops computer glitches...gotta go.. check in later...
miss you all and have so much more to share :)
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Our flight from Uganda to Yei took us over the Nile, a site Ana and I tried to capture with colored pencils in hand. With our heads against the window we looked in awe at the river we had only read about.
We landed in a green field welcomed by smiling faces and open arms. Travelling Logobara Rd. to the site was yet another experience. I'm not sure my stomach has ever gone through such a time and that says a lot for me. 14 kilometers down a road into the bush where you'd never believe anything could exist and like Dorothy reaching OZ, the NESEI School appears. It is incredible. I'm unable to post pictures at the moment but can't wait to share. The dining hall, the farm, the dorms, classrooms, kitchen where Gracie makes our meals of rice and beans, rice and beans and rice and beans. Yes, I've eaten a lot of rice and beans. Last night we had a going away feast at an Ethiopian Restaurant and never has food tasted so good!
Being here is humbling, inspiring, hard, but oh so good for the soul. I've seen the most beautiful faces, heard laughs of sheer happiness, felt the pain of carrying buckets and buckets of rock in the 90 degree sun and relief in making it safely to the end of a day. I've only been here 10 days and I've done so much. T
his posting is a demonstration of how fragmented my thoughts are. I don't know how to talk about the damn rooster who wakes me every day, or how I'm trying to "like" the latrines, or how to correctly hang a mosquito net or remember to take my malaria pill or keep a white shirt white by scrubbing it in my basin. All of these things are part of my surviving and thriving here and I love it. I do love Africa.
I will end by sharing an interesting experience last night that I will never forget. As 16 of us were preparing to sit down to dinner a television buzzed in the background and all of a sudden the words, "the world must come together as one. We are the world, we are the children, we are the ones to make a brighter place so let's start giving," blared. I turned around to see Michael Jackson, Willy and Bruce Springsteen singing in front of a Help Africa sign. I remember hearing this song at 4 years old. I couldn't believe that 28 years later I was in Africa listening to this song in a bar.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Highlights thus far:
Atem was a superstar in JFK. The security guard recognized his last name Deng and asked," Did you write a book? " She was referring to What is the What? She is reading it and thought she'd found the famous author.
Ok London calls. I'll finish this entry in a bit.
Monday, May 5, 2008
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
some emerged, but most unseen.
Seeing all and only blinking,
Who knows what this beast is thinking.
Gliding, and of judgment clear,
Letting go and being here.
Seeing all, both guilt and glory,
Only noting. But that's MY story.
I sit here hippo-like and breathe,
While inside I storm and seethe.
Would that I were half equanimous
As that placid hippopotamus.
By Steven Hickman
Monday, April 28, 2008
This picture was taken the day Bior and I met for the Seven Days photo shoot. I think it pretty much sums up the Organizational Mission of NESEI
The New Sudan Education Initiative (NESEI) is a partnership between Sudanese and a global network of supporters, who have come together to bring the gift of education to Sudan. We are working to ensure a lasting peace in this region by building 20 schools by 2015.
We are now patiently waiting for May 9th to arrive.
We have similiar feelings about the trip and also very different feelings. This is my first time travelling to this continent I'm so intriuged by and this will be his first time back after fleeing the violence of civil war in his home town of Bor.
This blog will be our diary. Whenever we're able to get internet access we'll tell you of our travels. Getting to Uganda and then Sudan and yes when I see my hippo ya'll know!